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Cheap hubs won't like large tyres and locked diffs, but even the cheap ones Milners sell are usually OK for most uses.
Personally I'd put a rear locker in first, the trouble with front lockers on a Surf is the outer CV joints don't like lots of load, especially on full lock. You can granade a outer CV with a open diff, full lock and a bit of throttle, let alone with the poor CV getting 100% of the engine power from a locker.
As Roger said, any Toyota 8" diff will fit the rear, but the ratio need to be the same as the front diff. Avoid early 2.4's that have a 2 pinion diff (code 2) as the 4 pinion diffs (code 4 or LSD code 5) are much stronger.
Lockers are lots of fun, but manual ones like the ARB are better as you can turn them off, the cheaper lockers are usually auto lockers with work all the time, despite what most people might think, a locked axle isn't always a good thing, especially in ice and snow when cornering.
Thanks Tony, more good info, esp the bit about big tyres, I'm planning on moving up to 33" as soon as I have sorted the body/suspension lift (looking at roughly 5" rear lift, and 4" front I think).
Just so I have a point of reference (and in case I find a big jar of pennies ) how much would I be looking at roughly for the supply and fit of an ARB locker for the rear?
Just so I have a point of reference (and in case I find a big jar of pennies ) how much would I be looking at roughly for the supply and fit of an ARB locker for the rear?
Around £600 for the locker (UK sourced - you can probably get them cheaper from the US but beware of shipping, duty and VAT) and £100-150ish for fitting. Frogs Island did mine and charged me that sort of amount (I took the diff out of the axle and refitted it).
Around £600 for the locker (UK sourced - you can probably get them cheaper from the US but beware of shipping, duty and VAT) and £100-150ish for fitting. Frogs Island did mine and charged me that sort of amount (I took the diff out of the axle and refitted it).
My ARB air locker and compressor came to just under £400 - but I bought in US and brought it home with me.
think i like the idea of the truetrac limited slip diff - gear driven not clutch plates best - to replace the knackered toyota LSD in my rear axle
as seems to be the best thing for snow driving, which is where i need something to help - although some handbrake action seems to be needed to help it work if a wheel is in the air etc
i dont do serious enough offroading to justify a full ARB locker
think i like the idea of the truetrac limited slip diff - gear driven not clutch plates best - to replace the knackered toyota LSD in my rear axle
as seems to be the best thing for snow driving, which is where i need something to help - although some handbrake action seems to be needed to help it work if a wheel is in the air etc
i dont do serious enough offroading to justify a full ARB locker
Whichever option you choose you'll probably have to find a specialist to do the work as the difficult bit is setting up the gears after a rebuild and this is needed whatever sort of diff you have (and it needs to be done right!).
I think i would look for specialist, as dont want to mince a brand new diff.
I might wait for diff to fail (if it does, its pretty slack) before fitting a new unit.
tested the diff last night, one side of truck on grass, other on road, the wheel on grass was spinning and I was going nowhere. tried a bit of handbrake - as thats meant to help some LSD diffs bite - didnt help.
Then afterwards, floored it on gravel drive and left a pair of wheel spins each time, so seems the LSD diff works a bit, i.e. it doesnt just spin 1 wheel on getaway on gravel. I noticed same in snow.
having looking into these
and eliminating the USA powertrax one - cos i have a LSD carrier in rear diff and not open diff carrier
I have decided against it due to cost, and wouldnt install myself, as takes a skilled mechanic who works on differentials regularly to set it up correctly - even the truetrac from milners/roughtrax needs the crown and pinon backlash adjusting carefully.
I think the Truetrac would be easier to install, as its a whole carrier - so pull out old and put new truetrac in,
the powertrax one uses existing carrier, and comes as a load of cogs that need to be fitted in exisiting carrier, which has to be dismantled - so sounds more fiddly
if i came into lots $$$$ I would get the truetrac one
My 3ltr has an open diff at the moment, so no problem there hopefully. Following a link from that ebay shop led me to a PDF file that lists which Powertrax diff for which vehicle (Surf not mentioned, by 4Runner and Hilux are, would have to confirm before spending $$$). There is also an install overview with pics in the PDF. They reckon it's about an hour and a half for an DIY mechanic, and only needs spanners and screw-drivers to fit.
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