Timing marks

[Fieldsy]

Ok gonna have a go at the t belt today, as everyone has said its easy on the 3rd gen........yeah right!!!, we'll see.

Anyway, got all the tools, allen keys, g clamps, plasters!!!

I know that the pulleys, belt and casing have all got marks that need to be aligned, so firstly, does this mean timing is spot on, when these are all in line, and secondly, how do you go about getting the pulleys in line with the casing, is it a matter of turning by hand, turning over engine......? Never done a t belt, but wiiling to have a go, so excuse the naivety, just need to know how to get the allignment manually, should be ok with the fitting.

much appreciated

Fieldsy

[NiftyNev]

I have not done a 3Ltr but heard it is easy compared to the 2.4Ltr.I do know that is recommended to do the tensioner on them though.If I remember correctly they are hydraulic.Do you have the 1KZ-TE manual? It's here if you need it -

http://mirror.slipstream.net.au/toyotasurf/

Neville

[andy]

Ok gonna have a go at the t belt today, as everyone has said its easy on the 3rd gen........yeah right!!!, we'll see.

Anyway, got all the tools, allen keys, g clamps, plasters!!!

I know that the pulleys, belt and casing have all got marks that need to be aligned, so firstly, does this mean timing is spot on, when these are all in line, and secondly, how do you go about getting the pulleys in line with the casing, is it a matter of turning by hand, turning over engine......? Never done a t belt, but wiiling to have a go, so excuse the naivety, just need to know how to get the allignment manually, should be ok with the fitting.

much appreciated

Fieldsy

I turn the motor over using the crankshaft pulley, cant remember what size socket it is, hope you have a good vice to compress the tensioner.

[Fieldsy]

Thanks Niftynev and Andy, much appreciated fellas, me dads got a vice Andy so should be ok there, but would the g-clamps suffice ???

cheers

Fieldsy

[andy]

Thanks Niftynev and Andy, much appreciated fellas, me dads got a vice Andy so should be ok there, but would the g-clamps suffice ???

cheers

Fieldsy

A vice would be better, you need a lot of pressure and if it slips it will take your head off, dont forget some locknut fluid on the threads

[Guest]

Have done it with G clamps but like Andy says, a vice is better.

Crankshaft pulley is a 19mm I think although it might be a 21mm but pretty sure it is the 19mm.

If you just remove the belt and don't turn over the engine, you should be able to just mark a fixed point on the pulley and housing and fit the belt and as long as when the belt is fitted and at the correct tension the marks still are in the same place then you should not have to worry. The 3 litre is so much easier because you don't have to worry about timing the fuel pump to the camshaft and the crankshaft as there are also gears engaged behind the cover which keep it all in synch.

[Fieldsy]

thanks for all the advice.............so if the pulleys aren't moved, is it a case of just slipping the belt on, or do the marks on the belt still have to line up with something????................. .......told you I was naive with timing

[Guest]

Fieldsy. No you only have to mark a belt if you refit one you have taken off (which personally I never do, even if the belt has only been on a few miles).

The belt doesn't have any reference marks on it that you use when fitting, the marks are only the ones on the pulleys and housing.

Personally when I have doen them (1 x 3 litre surf and my LC which has a similar arrangement), I take off the belt cover and set the timing marks to the refenetce points. Then remove the belt, then the tensioner. Compress the tensioner an fit a small allen key in the stop hole, fit the new belt, fit the tensioner, remove the allen key and hopefully the tension is taken up without moving the pulleys. Make sure you have the belt with no slack on the side that the tensioner doesn't press on, then when the tensioner takes up the slack it does so without moving the pulleys. Turn over the engine on the bottom pulley with a socket and breaker bar a couple of rotations and then check the timing marks again. They should be OK. Tightem everything you need to then refit the timing cover.

One thing. It's easier to remove the idler/tensioner from the Aircon belt to give you access to the timing cover.

[Fieldsy]

thanks m8, a big help, I think i can safely say, I can have a go at this now....................but it didn't happen today as I was distracted by 5 pints of grolsch at my boys football club......................oh well, there's always manyana

cheers again

Fieldsy

[NiftyNev]

thanks for all the advice.............so if the pulleys aren't moved, is it a case of just slipping the belt on, or do the marks on the belt still have to line up with something????................. .......told you I was naive with timing

If you don't move anything all should be ok but always recheck timing marks, after belt is installed and tensioner released, by rotating the crank a couple of turns.There are no marks on the belt, however, some belts I have seen are installed a certain way if marked with a direction of rotation arrow.If not on belt then disregard this.

Neville

[Fieldsy]

Thanks fellas, all done !!!, no major probs, apart from trying to get the belt of without moving anything...........succeeded until I removed the tensioner, then the top pulley moved. Went back to basics and set all the timing marks on the crankshaft/ pulleys and aligned the lines on the belt with the timing marks and hey presto it was fine.

Only MAJOR problem I had was, dropped one of the washers to the housing bolts, which fell to the depths...........and spent more time taking the sump guard off to retrieve the washer than actually changing the belt itself.

Just gotta take the dial cluster off to extinguish the "T-BELT" light.

cheers again for all your help and advice.

Fieldsy