3rd Gen SVA Pointers?

[robinbooth]

Can anyone give me some pointers for the SVA of a 3rd Gen Surf?

One thing I've read is that the rear wheel needs to be removed and any holes filled with gromets. Is this the just the wheel or the whole assembly?

Thanks in advance!

Rob.

[marky]

Why would you have to remove a rear mounted spare as lots of UK spec cars have them.

[steved]

Yes you do have to remove the rear spare and fill in the holes with grommets
you will also have to fit 2 stick on reflectors to the rear bumper as the exsisting ones are deemed to high.

[robinbooth]

Just spoke to the SVA bloke.

Things to check:

With a rear-slung spare, swing the wheel out and stand directly behind. If the lights are obscured by the wheel/ assembly then it has to come off and as Steved said, holes filled with grommets.

Speedo converted to read MPH

Rear fitted fog lamp (make sure the wiring through the car is secured every 10" / 30cm, follow the wiring harness where possible. Where the wire passes through bodywork, make sure there's a grommet and where it is longer than 12" externally (under the bumper), make sure it's in a plastic sheath.

Steering report (pre 97) or vehicle report (97+)

Any loose wiring in the car needs to be secured every 10" or 30cm.
Suggested removing any after-market wiring products for this reason, CD Changer wires, etc.

Any sharp edges on deflectors need to be removed (I had a sharp edge on a brand new fog light last year which it failed on)

Again, as Steved said, the reflectors inside the rear lights are too far off the ground. Two reflectors need to be fitted no higher than 900mm from the ground and any sharp edges removed.

That was more or less everything though a 2nd Gen '95 I had tested last year failed on the following points (in case anyone else looks up this info)

Sharp edge on fog light.
Milner brake pads weren't up to scratch - fit Ferrodo.
Speed rating on tyres - check the speed rating on your tyres before putting the max MPH on your SVA Application.
Make sure the tank is FULL, not just off FULL either - The tester refused to do the brake test for me as the fuel gauge was just off full. Subsequently it failed on brakes (Milner Pads) on the re-test when the tank was full, another £30 retest and £45 set of pads later, it passed.

Cheers,

Rob.

[robinbooth]

Wonder if I need to remove the wheel

After talking to the SVA guy, I've taken the following photo from the rear which shows that the lights are not obstructed when the wheel is swung out and the pin locks the wheel in place.

I wonder if I need to remove it then?

[robinbooth]

More pointers

Right....got a definitive list when I went yesterday and can clear up a few points for any futures SVAers.....

Rear wheel carrier has to come off. The hinge at the side protrudes too far from the body work.
Take it off and fill the holes.
Where the catch fits into the rear door, file the edges so there are no sharp edges.

Reflectors will need to be fitted to the rear bumper so they are less than 900mm from the ground.

Front bullbars must be removed (and any holes filled)

Sump Pans removed.

Fog light indicator (switch) should be toward the top of the dash. I put it in one of the blanks.

Wind deflectors - must have at least a 1mm edge all the way along.

Front wing mirror - removal. Needs an edge of 2.5mm around the plastic cover on the mirror.

Remove any fog lights / additional wiring from the vehicle. I'd removed all the wiring but left two tiny fog lights inside the bumper.

Advise anyone puts a maximum MPH on their form <= 99.
I said 100 and the tyres were rated to 99mph.

Where the fog light wiring leaves the back of the vehicle, make sure that it leaves the bodywork through a grommet and then is covered with a plastic sheath. If longer than 12" it must be tied to the bodywork.

Phew.....I think that is aboot it!

Forgot to mention....

remove the steering wheel cowling and loosen off the lower dash on the driver side - he'll want a look in there for the steering report.

Try and leave alarm installation until after the SVA (if you can). He wasn't happy with the wiring and I had to tie that in all the way along the wiring loom.

Last one....ultrasonics pushed in behind the door seals aren't acceptable. Get some Duck tape and tape them on to the frame and then put the seals in place.


Anyone else had this much hassle???





Rob.

[surfin]

Send..

Can anyone give me some pointers for the SVA of a 3rd Gen Surf?

One thing I've read is that the rear wheel needs to be removed and any holes filled with gromets. Is this the just the wheel or the whole assembly?

Thanks in advance!

Rob.

Send an email to Malenibo he works for the Ministry that enforces it all !

[kiowa]

Right....got a definitive list when I went yesterday and can clear up a few points for any futures SVAers.....

Rear wheel carrier has to come off. The hinge at the side protrudes too far from the body work.
Take it off and fill the holes.
Where the catch fits into the rear door, file the edges so there are no sharp edges.

Reflectors will need to be fitted to the rear bumper so they are less than 900mm from the ground.

Front bullbars must be removed (and any holes filled)

Sump Pans removed.

Fog light indicator (switch) should be toward the top of the dash. I put it in one of the blanks.

Wind deflectors - must have at least a 1mm edge all the way along.

Front wing mirror - removal. Needs an edge of 2.5mm around the plastic cover on the mirror.

Remove any fog lights / additional wiring from the vehicle. I'd removed all the wiring but left two tiny fog lights inside the bumper.

Advise anyone puts a maximum MPH on their form <= 99.
I said 100 and the tyres were rated to 99mph.

Where the fog light wiring leaves the back of the vehicle, make sure that it leaves the bodywork through a grommet and then is covered with a plastic sheath. If longer than 12" it must be tied to the bodywork.

Phew.....I think that is aboot it!

Forgot to mention....

remove the steering wheel cowling and loosen off the lower dash on the driver side - he'll want a look in there for the steering report.

Try and leave alarm installation until after the SVA (if you can). He wasn't happy with the wiring and I had to tie that in all the way along the wiring loom.

Last one....ultrasonics pushed in behind the door seals aren't acceptable. Get some Duck tape and tape them on to the frame and then put the seals in place.


Anyone else had this much hassle???





Rob.

what is an sva bud

[bell end billy]

I would suggest going to a different sva centre mine has rear wheel carrier , wing mirror, bull bar and no reflectors....

[Rob]

FFS!!!
I hate the UK!

Right....got a definitive list when I went yesterday and can clear up a few points for any futures SVAers.....

Rear wheel carrier has to come off. The hinge at the side protrudes too far from the body work. (like its gonna kill someone..)
Take it off and fill the holes.
Where the catch fits into the rear door, file the edges so there are no sharp edges. (some ppl, get real! I haven't injured myself when washing or polishing my Surf yet)

Reflectors will need to be fitted to the rear bumper so they are less than 900mm from the ground. (hmm, not got them on mine)

Front bullbars must be removed (and any holes filled)

Sump Pans removed. (!!!!ing idiots)

Fog light indicator (switch) should be toward the top of the dash. I put it in one of the blanks. (mines under the steering wheel)
Wind deflectors - must have at least a 1mm edge all the way along. (I've got the original Toyota ones and there's no way they've been off or modified)

Front wing mirror - removal. Needs an edge of 2.5mm around the plastic cover on the mirror. (sod off!)

Remove any fog lights / additional wiring from the vehicle. I'd removed all the wiring but left two tiny fog lights inside the bumper.

Advise anyone puts a maximum MPH on their form <= 99.
I said 100 and the tyres were rated to 99mph.
(slghtly petty i guess)

Where the fog light wiring leaves the back of the vehicle, make sure that it leaves the bodywork through a grommet and then is covered with a plastic sheath. If longer than 12" it must be tied to the bodywork.
(yup, mine is)

Phew.....I think that is aboot it!

Forgot to mention....

remove the steering wheel cowling and loosen off the lower dash on the driver side - he'll want a look in there for the steering report.

Try and leave alarm installation until after the SVA (if you can). He wasn't happy with the wiring and I had to tie that in all the way along the wiring loom.

Last one....ultrasonics pushed in behind the door seals aren't acceptable. Get some Duck tape and tape them on to the frame and then put the seals in place.


Anyone else had this much hassle???





Rob.

[Ste00]

easyer option might be to get a 2nd gen lol

[Cumbrian]

Right....got a definitive list when I went yesterday and can clear up a few points for any futures SVAers.....

Rear wheel carrier has to come off. The hinge at the side protrudes too far from the body work.
Take it off and fill the holes.
Where the catch fits into the rear door, file the edges so there are no sharp edges.

Reflectors will need to be fitted to the rear bumper so they are less than 900mm from the ground.

Front bullbars must be removed (and any holes filled)

Sump Pans removed.

Fog light indicator (switch) should be toward the top of the dash. I put it in one of the blanks.

Wind deflectors - must have at least a 1mm edge all the way along.

Front wing mirror - removal. Needs an edge of 2.5mm around the plastic cover on the mirror.

Remove any fog lights / additional wiring from the vehicle. I'd removed all the wiring but left two tiny fog lights inside the bumper.

Advise anyone puts a maximum MPH on their form <= 99.
I said 100 and the tyres were rated to 99mph.

Where the fog light wiring leaves the back of the vehicle, make sure that it leaves the bodywork through a grommet and then is covered with a plastic sheath. If longer than 12" it must be tied to the bodywork.

Phew.....I think that is aboot it!

Forgot to mention....

remove the steering wheel cowling and loosen off the lower dash on the driver side - he'll want a look in there for the steering report.

Try and leave alarm installation until after the SVA (if you can). He wasn't happy with the wiring and I had to tie that in all the way along the wiring loom.

Last one....ultrasonics pushed in behind the door seals aren't acceptable. Get some Duck tape and tape them on to the frame and then put the seals in place.


Anyone else had this much hassle???




Rob.

Would add if it was registered on/after October 1998, you will need an immobiliser on it for SVA.

[robinbooth]

Would add if it was registered on/after October 1998, you will need an immobiliser on it for SVA.

The car had been sitting on my drive so I'd had an thatcham cat 1 installed anyway. SVA bloke wasn't happy with it though - the wiring wasn't secured sufficiently so I had to tie it up right the way through under the dashboard and on the pillars for the ultrasonics I had to use Gaffer tape.

This guy was thorough but fortunately passed on it's 1st retest.

Phew!!!

[TonyN]

Is it just me or is this thread so depressing and full of useless regulations that you want to just want to drive the truck though their office windows and go postal?

We pay people to sit in a office and come up with this crap. :shakeshead:

Funny about the Milners pads, so now its official? Glad I don't fit them to customers cars.

[robinbooth]

Is it just me or is this thread so depressing and full of useless regulations that you want to just want to drive the truck though their office windows and go postal?

We pay people to sit in a office and come up with this crap. :shakeshead:

Funny about the Milners pads, so now its official? Glad I don't fit them to customers cars.

I suppose it's just a heads-up for anyone who might be going down the SVA route.

Funny about the Milners pads - they passed the MOT but not the SVA?!?!?! And believe me, the guy who does my MOTs is super-strict too.

Maybe I just like a challenge?!?!