Slowly losing the will to live...rear window

[Vultch]

So its a common prob, I searched the forum and used Judwaks excellent guide to greasing the rear window bits.
Anything that moved ...or even thought about moving was cleaned and greased, a big improvement but it still paused and sticks..the motor is buzzing away nicely.


To those who have done this

The motor seems to sit on a chassis which is held on by 4 bolts to the rear door, do i take this whole chassis out, how easy is it and window up or down when i do it.
Does the motor come off easy so that i can do the bolt mod... thanks

[TonyN]

yeah, open the door, close the locks with a screwdriver, wind the window up so the arms on the regulator are straight out to each side.

then unhook the wiring, latch cables, and lock and handle rods, undo the 4 bolts then slide it all the way to one side till the wheel comes out of guide strip, then all the way other till its free.

Then pull the window out a little more by hand so you don't scratch any tint on rear window, and lifty the regulator out.

Simples.

When you unbolt the motor the regulator will spring all the way out, so put both side of the gears in a vice, or clamp them with mole grips then remove the motor.

More simples.

[Vultch]

Thanks Tony... tomorrows job then

[Scorpion]

Hmmm, I did a write up a couple of years ago. I'll see if I can find it.

[EDIT] It seems to have disappeared, it used to be on the Daemon4x4 site but I can't find it there either.

[Vultch]

Thanks for looking Scorpion

[spacast]

When you unbolt the motor the regulator will spring all the way out, so put both side of the gears in a vice, or clamp them with mole grips then remove the motor.

When I took my motor off I had read the warnings about the regulator shooting back because of the spring,but it did not happen - and I had the motor off umpteen times. There are 2 holes that line up on the regulator and the gears so that you can put a screwdriver thru for safety, which is easier than clamping..
Anyway, before you take the whole regulator out I would remove the motor which is held on by 3 8mm (iirc) bolts. You can then see if you can push and pull the window up freely by hand, and examine the gears for wear. If that all seems good then you prob only need a new motor.
My motor cog had a groove worn in it by the gears! and water had got inside and rusted away the slot for the circlip. Being the sort of stubborn idiot I am I decided to repair by sawing thru the groove in the cog and removing the top part of it so I could push the shaft up and use the undamaged bottom part of the cog. To hold the shaft in place I drilled and used a split pin - then I had to bend the metal cover out in the centre using a hammer and a socket . All precision stuff. It works tho.
Another thing. People stand on the tailgate - If they're anything like the size of most members here this bends it.
Put a straight edge across the tailgate where the fixings for the regulator are.
The top ones on mine were OK, but the bottom ones were an inch down. This mean because the edge of the glass is held in runners, the centre of the glass is actually bent outwards as the window goes down .
I couldn't see how to straighten the strong part of the door, but with a bar you can easily straighten the actual fixing points of the regulator. It definitely made mine work better.

[Vultch]

Cheers Spacast I'll check that too

[TonyN]

Mine made a big difference to road noise from the back when the rear lower door seal actually touches the body when I pulled out the lower half of the tailgate. I check it everytime I have the tailgate apart as we sit/stand on ours alot and it bows inwards over time.

Mines never been bad enough to effect the window though, but worth checking.

[Vultch]

Many thanks to all who advised, i know have a fully working rear window for the first time in ages...
It was the rubber clutch bit in the motor gearbox, two self tapper screws sorted that out...