flushing the coolant

[rude72]

hello everyone!
please could someone give advice on the correct way to flush the cooling system and put in new coolant etc.( or where there's a good web page!)
As you can tell i'm new to this game and could do with some help!!!
many thanks

[Guest]

hello everyone!
please could someone give advice on the correct way to flush the cooling system and put in new coolant etc.( or where there's a good web page!)
As you can tell i'm new to this game and could do with some help!!!
many thanks

OK.

Switch the heaters on (front and rear if you have them).

The drain tap is at the bottom of the nearside (Passenger side) on the radiator. Undo this and remove the radiator cap.

Allow to drain and then remove the top hose at the radiator end.

With the drain tap still undone put a hose into the top hose pointing towards the engine and turn it on.

Leave the hose to flush through the engine for about 1/2 hour. To do a really good job, get some gaffer tape and tape a seal around the hose and the top hose.

Turn off the hose and remove.

Tighten the drain tap.

refit the top hose.

Fill the system SLOWLY through the radiator cap with premixed coolant (30% coolant, 50% water - use distilled water or soft water if you can).

When the system seem to be full, start the engine with the radiator cap still off and allow it to run for about 15 minutes occasionally squeezing the top hose, heater hoses to help any air bubbles escape.

Top up if required with the coolant mix.

Once all this is done, replace the radiator cap and take for a drive round the block.

While the system is drained down it would be good to change the thermostat (under the rad cap - 3 bolts) and the radiator cap (you need a 1.1 bar one).

I use Bluecol antifreeze although I have heard good things about Halfords professional coolant.

You could also add some DEI Radiator relief (Available from Agriemach or Frosts) or some Redline water wetter as both improve the cooling properties of the water / antifreeze mix.

Cheers

[NiftyNev]

Andy wrote -

"Fill the system SLOWLY through the radiator cap with premixed coolant (30% coolant, 50% water - use distilled water or soft water if you can)."

Hey Andy

What makes up the other 20%. Typo?

Neville

[rude72]

thanks for the help! will try it tomorrow and let you know how it goes
cheers

[JimL]

While the system is drained down it would be good to change the thermostat (under the rad cap - 3 bolts) and the radiator cap (you need a 1.1 bar one).

fairly sure my new cap is 0.9 bar, dont think I've seen a 1.1 bar one yet

[Rob]

fairly sure my new cap is 0.9 bar, dont think I've seen a 1.1 bar one yet

ditto.

[Guest]

Andy wrote -

"Fill the system SLOWLY through the radiator cap with premixed coolant (30% coolant, 50% water - use distilled water or soft water if you can)."

Hey Andy

What makes up the other 20%. Typo?

Neville

Yep Trypros RUS.

Cheers

[Guest]

ditto.

I got a 1.1 bar one on mine.

Cheers

[Rob]

Oh well, probably won't make a huge diffrence anyway! You can get an uprated TRD rad cap in the states for the 4runners. Instead of 0.9, they're 1.3 BAR.

[JimL]

Yes but thats almost a 20% difference in the amount of pressure the cap will allow build up under it. I posted in the General Service Info the part no. for this 0.9 cap (which Toypartsman gave me) and would not like to think its wrong information. Lets not call out the fire brigade all the same

[Vagrant No2]

Yes but thats almost a 20% difference in the amount of pressure the cap will allow build up under it. I posted in the General Service Info the part no. for this 0.9 cap (which Toypartsman gave me) and would not like to think its wrong information. Lets not call out the fire brigade all the same

When I fitted the 'wide body' rad to my wifes Triumph Herald to gain an extra 3/4 pint in the system I noticed the cap pressure on the bigger rad was higher by a couple of pound . John , the guy at the rad place I use for my rads , said that a higher pressure cap will raise the boiling point of coolant but also help it travel round the system faster .
I tried both caps on the wide rad , and yes the rad felt cooler with the higher pressure cap although the needle stayed the same on temp gauge .
I know its not a Surf but the cap pressure theory is there .

Rick

[AndyLala]

More of the same... Need to 'power flush' mine and found this description.Hope it helps, andyL
Cut and pasted from http://www.vtr.org/maintain/cooling-flush.html without permission.




Annual Cooling System Flush

by Glenn Merrell, TriStagReg@aol.com

Editor's Note: Although this article was originally written for the Stag with a specific reference to a heater core supply line connection on the left head, the general flushing procedure itself should apply to all Triumphs.

When preparing to perform the annual flush of the cooling system, obtain a good quality flushing detergent. Make sure it states that it is not harmful to aluminum, and ones with corrosion inhibitors seem to work the best. Prestone has a two part flush powder - one half is detergent for the flush, the second part is corrosion/rust inhibitor used in the rinse flush. First disconnect the heater core from the flushing by removing the feed and return hoses. Reverse flush it later by using a cut off garden hose attached to the heater return port (normally connected to a pipe that runs to the water pump cover) and connect a length of hose to the supply side of the heater core (normally connected to the left hand head) and route it into a drain. Reconnect the two engine side heater hoses using a suitable length of copper tubing, or if using a power flush connection, this is a good place to connect the tap. This bypass of the heater core will keep you from depositing the crud from the engine and cooling system right into your heater core. (You would only notice this when the weather turns colder and you were wondering why the heater does not work, as you panic to think that the cooling system has gone too.) Drain the cooling system and radiator by removing the lower hose on the radiator, disposing of the coolant properly. Remove the thermostat and reinstall the "water elbow" or "gooseneck". Follow the directions for flushing the system, being careful not to boilover or overheat the heads. If using a power flush system using the garden hose, make sure that the water is on for the whole engine flush cycle. Never pour cold water into a hot engine, as you will surely warp the cylinder heads and possibly crack the block. While the cooling system is flushing, take a good look at the thermostat. If is is clean and tidy, test the thermostat by placing it in a sauce pan of water and bring it to a simmer on the stove. Use your wife's candy thermometer (you do this when she is out shopping, of course) to observe the temperature when the thermostat opens, and make sure the thermostat opens. It should open fully, and if the boil is not too agressive, it is a kick to watch it open and close for the first time. After verifying that the thermostat opened at the proper temperature, remove it from the burner and add cold water to the pan to slowly cool the water. Observe that the thermostat closes. If the thermostat is dirty, or does not fully open or close, discard it and buy a new one with a new gasket. Most are less than 5 pounds sterling or $8 US, which is somewhat less costly than replacing a burst hose on an outing, or, the cylinder heads and gaskets.

By now the flush has progressed nicely and your neighbors are wondering why there is a steaming river running through the development. Shut down the engine, allowing the engine to cool normally. You will find that the garden hose kept the engine from heating past one quarter on the gauge (now just how long is that hose, anyway?). Now is a good time to flush the heater core as described above. After flushing, reconnect the heater core to the supply and return lines, open all drain taps to drain out the flush and making sure that the taps are clear and flowing, repeat with fresh water if necessary. Replace the thermostat and gasket, carefully positioning the jiggle pin or bleed hole at the 12:00 o'clock position. Replace and tighten the drain taps in the block, and tighten all the hose clamps. When the engine is just warm to the touch, refill the system with a mix of 50/50 distilled water/antifreeze. Use antifreezes that have corrosion inhibitors. I have found that the environmentally friendly antifreezes do not last more than 6 months, and eat your engine.