The official "I forgot this bit" when I did my Lexus engine swap thread

[Albannach]

Now that we have our nice new corner of this place, I thought I'd start the inaugural thread (The HiAce one is an impostor).

Those of you who have done the Lexus conversion, is there anything you forgot to do before the swap, that you really should have done with the engine and box either in the Lexus or on the bench?

[hiroler]

Whoo our very own corner!! I'm No help or Idea on your question. Do the cam belt while is out I suppose!! Check for power steering leaks!! Vince will be along soon enough!!

[BUSHWHACKER]

Fit the timing belt if it needs one.

Remove the viscous fan but re-fit the pulley afterwards with washers under the bolt heads to take up the slack.

Make sure the threads on all of the exhaust manifold flanges are clean. If not, now is the time to drill them out ready for nuts and bolts.

Chop the flanges off the Cats and use them when fabricating your exhaust system. (No Cats needed in the conversion)

Fit new fuel hoses to the hard lines on the V8, and leave long enough to connect to the Surf's hard lines.

Check the P/S pump for leaks. If it's leaking it will drip fluid onto the alternator bugger it!

Fit multiplug/wires to alternator and leave enough slack to solder into Surf's loom.

You could fit new O2 sensors if required, but they can be accessed when engine fitted, just remove each front wheel.

Fit the oil filter adapter and hoses, but these can also be fitted when engine is fitted, it's just much easier when the engine is on the bench.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Anyone interested in this?

I've asked if the AFM is included and he said yes, so everything is there for the conversion.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...:X:RTQ:GB:1123

[brian1975]

Also to remove the heat shield`s from the headers and grind the stud`s down and also remove the plastic casing from the bottom of the steering shaft on the surf, free`s up a little more room for the squeeze in

[BUSHWHACKER]

Oh yeah, and remove the EGR pipe that goes from the rear of the plenum chamber to the driver's side exhaust manifold, and make/fit blanking plates.

[Albannach]

Oh yeah, and remove the EGR pipe that goes from the rear of the plenum chamber to the driver's side exhaust manifold, and make/fit blanking plates.

Can all the EGR gubbin's be removed?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Can all the EGR gubbin's be removed?

Yes. It may or may not throw a fault code, so far none of mine have.

The MOT tester just measures the emmisions with a probe and it has to fall within a certain limit. Lexurf III was well within the limit.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Some more......
Ok, once the stinky diesel lump is removed from the Surf, give the engine bay a good clean!
Next is the handbrake pulley assembly, it protrudes through the bulkhead too much and fouls the cylinderhead on the V8.
You need to take it apart and re-mount it the other side of the bulkhead using 40mm spacers and cut a slot so that the cable can go down on the engine side of the bulkhead. the handrake handle should stil re-attach in the same place.

Another thing to do is the battery cable.
If you're keeping both batteries and/or using a snorkel then leave as is.
If only using one battery, then it needs to go on the passenger side, (you'll need the space on the driver's side for an air filter) and you'll need to run a suitable sized cable across from the surf's fuse box which will need power for the lights, heater etc..

Also, where the passenger side cylinderhead on the V8 touches the bulkhead in the surf, you'll need to 'massage' an indent so it clears it comfortably.

[dannyboy77]

dont know if coinsideance but think need bonnet scoops for this chaps as i think from running the engine hard at bala i have broke a seal on the top of the radiator and its leaking when hot! as it is over heating when giving it a 100 mile run so going to heat wrap the exhaust manifolds and bonnet scoop it to get air in and circulating. Or my raditor was at the end of its life! also fan was always on so i think there is a potential problem of over heating if no scoops or vents or have to drive it like miss daisy

[brian1975]

dont know if coinsideance but think need bonnet scoops for this chaps as i think from running the engine hard at bala i have broke a seal on the top of the radiator and its leaking when hot! as it is over heating when giving it a 100 mile run so going to heat wrap the exhaust manifolds and bonnet scoop it to get air in and circulating. Or my raditor was at the end of its life! also fan was always on so i think there is a potential problem of over heating if no scoops or vents or have to drive it like miss daisy

I went this route to help cooling Danny.
WRX Bonnet scoop and vents on ebay managed to get them for £40, keeps the temps down nice. Driving around at 30/40mph temp is around 80/82 same at motorway speeds, set my fan to kick in at 85.

[BUSHWHACKER]

dont know if coinsideance but think need bonnet scoops for this chaps as i think from running the engine hard at bala i have broke a seal on the top of the radiator and its leaking when hot! as it is over heating when giving it a 100 mile run so going to heat wrap the exhaust manifolds and bonnet scoop it to get air in and circulating. Or my raditor was at the end of its life! also fan was always on so i think there is a potential problem of over heating if no scoops or vents or have to drive it like miss daisy

You need extractor vents more than scoops.
Scoops are OK if you fit them near the windscreen so the air they catch can flow down the back of the engine, over the transmission and out under the truck when cruising at speed, and the hot air can escape when at standstill.
Vents placed halfway up the bonnet will encourage more efficient airflow through the radiator at any speed as the hot air has somewhere to go instead of buffeting around the engine bay and out through the wheel arches.
I'll be cutting some vents into Lexurf IV's bonnet tomorrow and fitting some mesh. I'll posts photos here when they're done.

Do you still want that dash section?

[dannyboy77]

was going to have a set of nostrels on the truck looks more mean just thinking of the right place to put them as you said hot air can leave the engine bay and convection can happen drawing cool air in from underneath. is the bonnect structural as can we cut through the cross supports??

will heat wrap the manifolds too that will reduce heat further. i would like the head up display profile part of the dash if you have one going i will trust you to cut the right amount haha!

got the 4WD working BTW needed the 8 wires for the 4 connector points on the TC took them out the surf loom on the gear box and connected them to the surf loom in the truck and connected the power point from the redundant surf display wires behind the dash if you know what i mean.

[BUSHWHACKER]

The strengthening ribs are bonded to the bonnet's skin in various places, so it won't flop about if you cut it.

I'll need you address to send the dash section, postage will probably be around a tenner though I would imagine.

[dannyboy77]

thanks! you got a paypal account i can sort the P+P out? email address is danblako@hotmail.co.uk

was thinkng to have it like the astin V12 2 nostrels over the exhast manifolds it will look cool

not too bothered about the rain as off roading gets all the engine bay wet and covered in mud! ! was thinking of getting the expanded metal mesh and appoxy it to the underside and rubber bead around the edge?

address will be

daniel blakeley
2020 Liverpool
Mercury court
West House
Tithebarn St
Liverpool
L2 2QP