few problems

[sabreuk]

if your ujs are fine have a look at your front prop again hand brake on and put it in gear with the engine off your front prop should rotate freely if it doesnt then you have more than likey a vac leak. and 4wd has engaged the light 4wd light wont be on on the dash, this might cause your whinning noise.

on the coolant defo change cap. have you squeezed the rad top and bottom hose to see if there is coolant in the hoses? if there isnt or very little in either hose you might have a blockage. then its a case of process of elimination.

[Sean.M]

Ok so had a look at the rad cap and the seal was in shite so have to renew that and had a look at the universal joint and it didnt wobble so dont think that is a problem.

[sabreuk]

if you have a look at your props theres 2 of them 1 main from rear axle to tranny then theres from transfer box to the front diff. at each end of the prop there is a joint see the pic in my above post your looking for them inbetween the joint the bit that holds it together is the + bit again see pic in above post and your checking for movement on the + bit.

[Sean.M]

the best thing to do with bleeding the system mate is a do a search on the forum theres hundreds of differant tried and tested methods on how to do this type in something like bleeding coolant or something similar.

Right ill have a search in a minute
where is the universal joint positioned ?
ill check it when the surf gets back

[sabreuk]

the best thing to do with bleeding the system mate is a do a search on the forum theres hundreds of differant tried and tested methods on how to do this type in something like bleeding coolant or something similar.

[Sean.M]

the rad cap has a pressure realese valve on it so when it gets to hot or over pressures the cap releases it if its an old cap it might not be releasing the pressure properly at all. just changed mine and its now blowing uber hot air in the coolant air locks the whole system so instead of the coolant cooling the engine its trying to cool the air stuck in it thus it cant get warm you need to burp the system to get the air out you should get hot air then (think of it another way imagine having a air bubble stuck in artery or vein). if you have checked the rad and bleed the air out have a look at the rear heater under the arm rest thing that could be blosked also and give the same problem all it is is a mini radiatror same as the front rad. a uj (universal joint) is the joints at the end of your props so it can rotate with out seizing the bit in question is the + bit holding the props together. the + sits inbetween the knuckles and holds the prop together.

well i have noticed the air when on hot definately is not the hottest
also how do you bleed the rad ?

[Sean.M]

JEEP??????

soory hilux when the hilux gets back haha

[BUSHWHACKER]

JEEP??????

[Sean.M]

Is the thermostat fitted?
If it is, is the litle jiggle valve in the '12 o'clock' position?




If the radiator cap's rubber seal is broken or worn/perished, it won't hold pressure in the cooling system and the coolant will push past the cap's seal straight into the expansion tank. As soon as the tank is full, it'll overflow. As the engine cools, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator. If some coolant was lost, the radiator will be sucking in air and it'll need topping up again.

yes the thermostat is fitted and yeah its in the 12 position

my uncles using the jeep atm ill have a look at the cap when he gets back.

[sabreuk]

the rad cap has a pressure realese valve on it so when it gets to hot or over pressures the cap releases it if its an old cap it might not be releasing the pressure properly at all. just changed mine and its now blowing uber hot air in the coolant air locks the whole system so instead of the coolant cooling the engine its trying to cool the air stuck in it thus it cant get warm you need to burp the system to get the air out you should get hot air then (think of it another way imagine having a air bubble stuck in artery or vein). if you have checked the rad and bleed the air out have a look at the rear heater under the arm rest thing that could be blosked also and give the same problem all it is is a mini radiatror same as the front rad. a uj (universal joint) is the joints at the end of your props so it can rotate with out seizing the bit in question is the + bit holding the props together. the + sits inbetween the knuckles and holds the prop together.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Another thing might have something to do with the water whenever i start it it heats up almost instantly between hot and cold on the clock it never goes past it or nothing but seems a bit unusual ? :S

Is the thermostat fitted?
If it is, is the litle jiggle valve in the '12 o'clock' position?

No i didnt do either hey why do i need to ?

If the radiator cap's rubber seal is broken or worn/perished, it won't hold pressure in the cooling system and the coolant will push past the cap's seal straight into the expansion tank. As soon as the tank is full, it'll overflow. As the engine cools, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator. If some coolant was lost, the radiator will be sucking in air and it'll need topping up again.

[Sean.M]

Have you re-newed the raditor cap?
Did you get all the air out of the coolant?

No i didnt do either hey why do i need to ?

[tonupteabag]

I had a similar problem on mine when i first got the truck i changed the rad and found the rad i removed was blocked new rad and now its fine

[Sean.M]

Another thing might have something to do with the water whenever i start it it heats up almost instantly between hot and cold on the clock it never goes past it or nothing but seems a bit unusual ? :S

[BUSHWHACKER]

Have you re-newed the raditor cap?
Did you get all the air out of the coolant?