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Replacing the inner oil seal on 3rd gen rear axle.

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  • Replacing the inner oil seal on 3rd gen rear axle.

    This write-up covers changing the inner seals only, as it's an easy DIY job, the outer seals and wheel bearings is a lot more involved as a floor press and special tools are needed to remove the ABS ring.

    If your handbrake doesn't work and there's oil dribbling onto the insides of the rear wheels, then it's most likely that the inner half shaft oil seals are worn.

    Roughtrax sell the seals seperately or as a complete kit. The ABS trigger ring is available seperately.

    1. Remove wheel and pull off brake drum. If the drum won't pull off easily, use two M8 bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes provided in the drum to push it off.


    The brake shoes and inside of the drum will probably look like this, covered in diff oil!



    2. Give the brake shoe assembly a thorough degrease and or pressure wash. (my preference) and remove the brake shoes.
    Then, using a 12mm socket or spanner, remove the two bolts and the two springs that secure the handbrake actuator assembly to the backplate.


    While it's off, give it a wire brushing and some lubrication (Copper grease) to the clevis pin area to make sure it can move freely, this part is known for seizing affecting smooth handbrake operation.


    3. Next. remove the brake pipe and bend it carefully away from the backplate, and either seal the open end with a small plastic bag and cable tie to prevent dirt ingress and fluid drips, or make up a female brake pipe fitting to screw the nipple into as I have.



    4. Remove the four nuts (14mm socket/spanner) that hold the backplate to the halfshaft housing and withdraw the halfshaft. A little diff oil may or may not dribble out as you withdraw the shaft so place something underneath to catch any drips.



    Here you can see the inner oil seal...


    Inspect the large 'O' ring for any damage, but generally they'll be OK.

    5. Next, remove the old oil seal. I (carefully) chop it with a sharpened flat blade screwdriver (Redneck!) then hook it out. There's a thin metal ring moulded into the seal that you need to split so that the seal can collapse and be hooked out.


    6. Once the seal is out, give the housing a wipe out and make sure the ABS sensor is clean.


    7. Smear some oil around the edge of the new seal and tap it into position. I use a suitably sized piece of tube, but you can also gently tap it into place at various points around the circumference of the seal.



    8. Brush any dirt off the mating surface of the backplate and lubricate the halfshaft and the inner lip of the seal, then carefully and slowly insert the shaft back into the axle housing, trying not to drag it over the delicate inner lip of the seal as you go.



    9. Refit the four nuts to secure the backplate to the axle.

    10. Refit the handbrake actuator assembly to the backplate.

    11. Re-insert the brake pipe into the wheel cylinder.

    2. Fit new brake shoes, as the old ones will be useless as they are contaminated with diff oil.

    13. Give the drum a good wash out with thinners to thoroughly degrease it before refitting.

    14. Adjust the brake shoes via the toothed adjuster wheel through the slot in the backplate, so that the drum becomes tight to turn by hand.
    (Handbrake off, transmission in N)

    15. Bleed the rear brake cylinder.

    16. Refit road wheel.

    17. Go out for a drive and see if you can do some decent handbrake turns now.
    Last edited by BUSHWHACKER; 9 September 2014, 18:31.

  • #2
    Very handy write up indeed.

    So detailed in fact, it's almost as if I was there and watched it being done !!

    Comment


    • #3
      Good write up Vince.
      Alan

      yoshie "Didn't know they had a pill for laziness, anyway get well soon."

      Comment


      • #4
        nice write up

        i bought one of these tools
        http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-37439.../dp/B000PJCBVM

        as recommened by guy in landcrusier club

        makes removing the old seals much easier than jabbing around with a screwdriver
        Landcruiser Colorado
        Sub. Forester

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Vince,

          Used that today and it was a great help.

          Only thing I'd add, is that my genuine original Toyota seals had a metal bit on the outside of them so when removing the half shaft I was not looking straight away at black rubber. Overall a fairly easy job.

          Cheers

          Ben

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          • #6
            Inner seal

            Does the inner seal get pushed in until it stops or did you measure the original location? The location of this seal and the collars on the axle are I am led to believe critical. Thing is I just pulled the old seal out and didn't measure how far in it was.
            I failed at seperating the hub and half shaft as one of the bearings was a little loose, took it to the garage who broke the special tool and had to get a new one. 12 tonnes and it didn't shift until a lot of heat was applied. The ABS rings had to be cut off. Hoping the heat didn't weaken anything.

            Comment


            • #7
              There's a shoulder in the tube to stop the seal being pushed in too far. See the photo with the ABS sensor.

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              • #8
                Superb thread, thanks. I need to replace the same seal. Can anyone give me the correct dimensions ? This will help me due to the fact I live in Spain and the Surf is not at all common. I hope with the dimensions to be able to source exactly the part rather than have the local accessory shop guess at it. L.O.L.:

                rolleyes2

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                • #9
                  Tips

                  I would strongly suggest using genuine oil seals. I have had two leak and having replaced one I then took it to the garage who confirmed the seal was running centrally on the collar. I had used roughtrax seals. They state they are made to Toyota specs but on purchasing the Toyota ones they are in fact very different. Interestingly Milners are also completely different too! Moral of the story, buy genuine. They're not expensive anyway!

                  A piece of round drainpipe works wonders for tapping them in evenly!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Many thanks for your post, you are correct in that you get what you pay for.
                    After a little searching I found online the Toyota part number and have now purchased one from my local dealer, suprisingly cheap for Spain at only €5.00
                    Fitted it today so fingers crossed it doesnt fail.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ultimate guide to doing this (3rd gen) is here:

                      http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...d-3rd-gen.html

                      Mine have been done twice in the last two years and are leaking again. Looks like I need to do the whole thing with OEM parts, not just the RT seal kit. Or do a Char*ie and replace the whole rear axle for a LC/Prado disc brake jobbie
                      Surf if you got a wave. Wave if you got a Surf.™

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by J i m s t e r View Post
                        Or do a Char*ie and replace the whole rear axle for a LC/Prado disc brake jobbie
                        You know its the way forward!
                        More Lift.
                        More Tyres.
                        More Engine.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just to hijack this thread if I may, does anyone know where I can get the genuine part for the inner axle seals. I've gone through two from RT and the axle is still leaking.
                          Spent a couple of hours googling part numbers etc and came up with 9031050006 but can't find it on any stores. Would my local Toyota dealer be able to help with this part or am I destined to use an eBay fake alternative?
                          Cheers

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